Episode 11 · Season 2 · San Francisco, CA
ART OF THE RESTAURANT: James Beard Award-Winning Chef Stuart Brioza on the craft of cooking
Stuart Brioza is a James Beard Award-winning chef and co-owner of State Bird Provisions, The Progress, and The Anchovy Bar in San Francisco. Recorded inside The Progress, this episode traces his path from dishwasher at fifteen to leading three of the city's most celebrated restaurants — and asks what it means to define California cuisine, why he built a restaurant by hand, and why restaurants are one of the last places that require active human participation.
April 23, 2026 · 55 min
Episode notes
In this episode of The Trades Show, host Briana Ottoboni sits down with Stuart Brioza, James Beard Award-winning chef and co-owner of State Bird Provisions, The Progress, and The Anchovy Bar, inside The Progress restaurant in San Francisco. Their conversation traces Stuart’s path from dishwasher at fifteen to leading three of the city’s most celebrated restaurants — and explores what it means to define California cuisine in a time when every ingredient imaginable shows up at the farmers market. Stuart shares the origin story of State Bird’s small plates revolution, the handmade design philosophy that built The Progress (down to every chair, table, and piece of pottery), and why he opened The Anchovy Bar to celebrate a two-hour-out-of-water local fish that nobody else pays attention to. They talk about discovery versus innovation, the good-better-best mindset that drives his cooking, and why restaurants are one of the last places that require active human participation. Whether you’re a cook, a craft-curious diner, or someone trying to figure out how to stay creative without burning out, this episode is a masterclass in leading with patience, building for longevity, and cooking with all five senses.
The Trades Show is an interview series on location with modern artisans exploring what it means to be human: the ability to create with our hands.
Chapters
What's in this episode
- 00:00 Welcome to The Trades Show
- 00:36 Meet Chef Stuart Brioza
- 01:45 Cooking as a Sensory Craft
- 02:38 Leading Three Restaurants
- 04:19 State Bird Small Plates
- 06:38 The Progress Handmade Design
- 09:30 Good Better Best Mindset
- 12:20 Defining California Cuisine
- 15:11 Anchovy Bar Local Mission
- 20:14 From Dishwasher to Chef
- 26:32 Landing First Kitchen Job
- 28:14 Learning Through Mistakes
- 29:53 How Cooking Culture Changed
- 30:20 Social Media and Dish Lineage
- 34:04 Discovery Becomes Innovation
- 38:10 Boredom as Creative Fuel
- 41:55 Restaurants as Human Refuge
- 44:32 Innovating Without Burnout
- 48:53 Tech Wins and Losses
- 50:16 Simplicity and Career Advice
- 51:40 Craftspeople for Life
- 53:57 Closing Thanks and Outro
Meet the guest
Stuart Brioza
Stuart Brioza is a chef in San Francisco, CA.
Looking for work in the artisan trades? The Corral is the national jobs board for artisans and the shops that hire them.